Exploring The Beara Peninsula
by John Willmott of Celtic Ways
At last, I returned to one of my favourite places in Ireland, The Beara Peninsula on the borders of Co. Kerry and Co. Cork. Most visitors to Co. Kerry visit The Dingle and Ring of Kerry and miss this gem. As well as hosting some of the most spectacular views of Ireland here we have some of the most spectacular stone circles in Ireland.
After spending a very comfortable night at Devitt's Hotel in Henry St. Kenmare I set off into a wonderful clear, sunny, light wind almost cloudless day at the end of January.
First, intended stop was a stone circle at Adrigole. The journey there included a fascinating drive through the Healy Pass. This is an incredible snaking road that twists into all points of the compass as it descends the slopes of the Caha Mountains beside Hungry Hill. This road was built during the famine and I will shortly read of its history. The entire road is mounted on intricate stone walls built to last 100s of years. There's a beautiful tall shrine is at the head of the pass. This pass is quite a wonder to explore and journey, especially on a clear sunny day.
Arriving at Adrigole I found the stone circle was in a beautiful location overlooking the natural picturesque Adrigole Harbour but it was well secured on private property. As I had a list of other places to visit I moved on. I must visit Adrigole and spend time here as are there are many ancient sites within a 2 km radius.
My next intention was to visit a stone circle west of Castletown Bearhaven known a Derreenataggart stone circle, but I had some wonderful distractions on the way.
First, I was curious about a line of antiquities printed on the OS map on a side road running parallel to the main road with an area cally Derrymihin West. I thought I would try and find a couple of sites. The first was a couple of standing stones in a field and, as usual, this creates a mystery of what these were once part of.
The next stop was quite a find, though. It was a group of fields with several boulder tombs and standing stones. Fortunately there were no bulls, cattle or difficult fences. Most gates between fields were open. The only critter was an Old English sheepdog that came up to investigate me. This was the start of quite a day for dog greetings. I will feature a photo gallery of this site, along with the other places I visited, and maybe its protective canines, as soon as I can.
Thinking my next stop was the Derreenataggart stone circle I saw a sign for "Cloontreem Wedge Grave", so I had to investigate. As I drove along the lane the centre deteriorated as its turf centre grew wider and wider until there was no road surface. Luckily this was by a farmhouse where I had my second canine greeting, a herd of dogs with as many breeds as a small dog show. At this point the sign pointed ahead to Derrymihin Cairns, which did not make sense unless the walker took a 90 degree turn across some very boggy terrain.
I carried on forward and the grass track gradually faded into no track and then an uphill climb through some boggy underfoot. This is following the Beara Way. The only means of following this Way at this point is to head for the next marker, and often this requires binoculars to locate it. Interestingly, each marker does have a clear number so should a walker get into difficulty, as there are many natural booby traps, a call for help can be made naming the number of the marker. Mobile phone signal is excellent here.
I believe it was by marker 96, where I found the remains of the wedge tomb. Its probably quite easy to walk past without knowing what it is or even recognize that it is there. However, take photos of it and it shows up as the real thing. The capstone is lying a metre or so away. It is quite small. Views at this point on a clear day are wonderful.
My next stop after this adventure was, at last, the Derreenataggart stone circle, but not without looking over to Bear Island that also houses many antiquities that I must visit sometime. Passing through Castletown Bearhaven was interesting, a largeish town harbouring large trawlers which seemed strange after traveling through so much enchanting wilderness.
I was a bit pessimistic about approaching the Derreenataggart stone circle because I have read and heard a few comments about it being a derelict and even fake circle with a difficult to ascertain orientation. I avoided it on my last Beara Peninsula visit due to these views.
Again here was another site where I was greeted by a canine, a bulky golden retriever with half dozen slices of stale bread hanging from his or her mouth. Maybe this was a harvest donation to be buried at the site.
This circle was a surprise as it turned out to be one of the finest in Ireland. Though the circle is fairly small it has well defined orientation and entrance stones and is not broken up or engulfed by trees, shrubs, gorse or bog. This is a wonderful introduction to anyone unfamiliar with stone circles.
A local person did tell me of a nearby circle in ruins, so the reports I had read may have been mistaken visits to this other site. However, the Derreenataggart stone circle is a very easy circle to find and visit. It is very well signposted from Castletown Bearhaven.
After this rewarding visit I traveled the country lanes west. First I stopped at a ring fort, Teernahilane, a raised ring fort said to be one of the largest in Ireland. As this is an AD creation and outside the period I cover within Tour Ancient Ireland I did not spend much time here yet it was a fascinating stop.
After heading further west down the country lane I decided that as daylight hours were about two thirds over it was time to start returning east. As I reached the junction to maneuver my change of direction I noticed stones popping out of long grass. I parked and went to investigate. The long grass turned out to be quite soft and deep bog but the stones were worth a visit. Three stones in a kind of triangular form and as I approached them tripped over some large buried stones, probably part of this site. Worth an excavation, I think. There might be the odd gold bracelet and bronze axe buried here at Knockoura.
It was now time to head to the spectacular north coast of the peninsula where a string of some of the best stone circles in Ireland are positioned. The drive over was a rarity. The clarity provided a wonderful view of the stack of islands off of the ring of Kerry, especially of Skellig Michael which seemed so close. After my return I spoke to a tour guide in Co. Wicklow who has taken about 60 groups to Kerry in 12 years and has never seen a view of Skellig Michael yet as it has always been too misty or hazy at the coast. That's how lucky I was today.
My first north coast stop was Ardgroom which is an impressive, despite being jumbled, circle with very tall stones. Rather than the flat orientation stone that is common to circles in this area this has an unusual outlying lozenge shaped pointing stone providing an unusual SSW orientation. Last time I was here it was sunset but this time I was hoping for pictures in the sun. As is common to me on days like this the only cloud around cloud appeared exactly over the site and made it dull, and the cloud would not shift until I started to move away. This has happened to me on visits to Bronahagh in Co. Cork, Lake Isle Of Innishfree in Co. Sligo, Beltany Circle in Co. Donegal and Beaghmore in Co. Tyrone. Symbolic? I did patiently wait and did take my sunlight pictures before a stack of re-enforcement clouds appeared.
If you visit Ardgroom Circle there is a sort of "keep out" sign that is really illustrating that the once wonderful footpath to the circle is no longer maintained. That's true. Since my last visit much of this wonderful path has become buried and disappeared under the bog. However, the circle is still visitable despite also being fast engulfed by shrubs and boggy surroundings. There is a newer large purple sign pointing to the circle and the farmer waved cheerfully as I visited. This indicates that the older sign is really a warning about access rather than a demand to keep out. This is not a place where cattle will graze.
Next and final intended stop was supposed to be the planned highlight of my day, Dromroe Circle. I have read that this is a large circle of many features such as a tall central standing stone and central boulder tomb as well as being incredibly scenic. It takes a while to walk to but is, and now was, well signposted. First, I noticed the first sign from the main road had gone, but these often do. Alas, when I reached the first style a huge yellow "Keep Out" notice is posted. It seems someone was injured on the walk to the circle so now access is closed.
Unfortunately, though Co. Cork and south Co. Kerry is the most abundant area for stone circles and ancient tombs access is very sensitive. Several people have successfully sued farmers when they injured themselves on there land so farmers naturally curb access to their land. Fortunately, recent similar civil actions have failed and this is slowly influencing some farmers to relax access.
As I could not reach Dromroe I quickly took a re-visit to Uragh, which must be the most picturesque place on the Beara peninsula and one of the most amazing in Ireland. The most visited circle is a small five stone circle with a monster tall and wide alignment stone. Here there is a wonderful arrangement for access. There is a trusting donation collection box on the edge of the land.
As daylight was near its end I actually avoided the dramatic circle to look for the other circle in the area that is nestled on the edge of a nearby wood, or so I am told. In fact, I viewed it with my video camera's zoom lens when I visited last time. I have seen wonderful photos of it too.
Alas, I walked all around the woods clockwise and anti-clockwise for about 90 minutes and could not find the circle. I did find a standing stone. Several times I fell face down in the bog to the point I must have looked like part of the bog. My mobile phone rang and my friend, Claire Roche, was asking when I would be back for dinner (which is "for tea" in Ireland). With no hesitation it was a sprint back to the car, extremely fast change of clothes in the bitter wind brewing and a no hassle 4 hour drive back to Co. Dublin for hot bath and "tea".
It had been a wonderful day with the highlights being Derreenataggart circle, Derymihin tombs, Ardgroom circle and The Healy Pass. Not bad for a day's adventure. I'll post photo galleries of this adventure as soon as I can.
At last, I returned to one of my favourite places in Ireland, The Beara Peninsula on the borders of Co. Kerry and Co. Cork. Most visitors to Co. Kerry visit The Dingle and Ring of Kerry and miss this gem. As well as hosting some of the most spectacular views of Ireland here we have some of the most spectacular stone circles in Ireland.
After spending a very comfortable night at Devitt's Hotel in Henry St. Kenmare I set off into a wonderful clear, sunny, light wind almost cloudless day at the end of January.
First, intended stop was a stone circle at Adrigole. The journey there included a fascinating drive through the Healy Pass. This is an incredible snaking road that twists into all points of the compass as it descends the slopes of the Caha Mountains beside Hungry Hill. This road was built during the famine and I will shortly read of its history. The entire road is mounted on intricate stone walls built to last 100s of years. There's a beautiful tall shrine is at the head of the pass. This pass is quite a wonder to explore and journey, especially on a clear sunny day.
Arriving at Adrigole I found the stone circle was in a beautiful location overlooking the natural picturesque Adrigole Harbour but it was well secured on private property. As I had a list of other places to visit I moved on. I must visit Adrigole and spend time here as are there are many ancient sites within a 2 km radius.
My next intention was to visit a stone circle west of Castletown Bearhaven known a Derreenataggart stone circle, but I had some wonderful distractions on the way.
First, I was curious about a line of antiquities printed on the OS map on a side road running parallel to the main road with an area cally Derrymihin West. I thought I would try and find a couple of sites. The first was a couple of standing stones in a field and, as usual, this creates a mystery of what these were once part of.
The next stop was quite a find, though. It was a group of fields with several boulder tombs and standing stones. Fortunately there were no bulls, cattle or difficult fences. Most gates between fields were open. The only critter was an Old English sheepdog that came up to investigate me. This was the start of quite a day for dog greetings. I will feature a photo gallery of this site, along with the other places I visited, and maybe its protective canines, as soon as I can.
Thinking my next stop was the Derreenataggart stone circle I saw a sign for "Cloontreem Wedge Grave", so I had to investigate. As I drove along the lane the centre deteriorated as its turf centre grew wider and wider until there was no road surface. Luckily this was by a farmhouse where I had my second canine greeting, a herd of dogs with as many breeds as a small dog show. At this point the sign pointed ahead to Derrymihin Cairns, which did not make sense unless the walker took a 90 degree turn across some very boggy terrain.
I carried on forward and the grass track gradually faded into no track and then an uphill climb through some boggy underfoot. This is following the Beara Way. The only means of following this Way at this point is to head for the next marker, and often this requires binoculars to locate it. Interestingly, each marker does have a clear number so should a walker get into difficulty, as there are many natural booby traps, a call for help can be made naming the number of the marker. Mobile phone signal is excellent here.
I believe it was by marker 96, where I found the remains of the wedge tomb. Its probably quite easy to walk past without knowing what it is or even recognize that it is there. However, take photos of it and it shows up as the real thing. The capstone is lying a metre or so away. It is quite small. Views at this point on a clear day are wonderful.
My next stop after this adventure was, at last, the Derreenataggart stone circle, but not without looking over to Bear Island that also houses many antiquities that I must visit sometime. Passing through Castletown Bearhaven was interesting, a largeish town harbouring large trawlers which seemed strange after traveling through so much enchanting wilderness.
I was a bit pessimistic about approaching the Derreenataggart stone circle because I have read and heard a few comments about it being a derelict and even fake circle with a difficult to ascertain orientation. I avoided it on my last Beara Peninsula visit due to these views.
Again here was another site where I was greeted by a canine, a bulky golden retriever with half dozen slices of stale bread hanging from his or her mouth. Maybe this was a harvest donation to be buried at the site.
This circle was a surprise as it turned out to be one of the finest in Ireland. Though the circle is fairly small it has well defined orientation and entrance stones and is not broken up or engulfed by trees, shrubs, gorse or bog. This is a wonderful introduction to anyone unfamiliar with stone circles.
A local person did tell me of a nearby circle in ruins, so the reports I had read may have been mistaken visits to this other site. However, the Derreenataggart stone circle is a very easy circle to find and visit. It is very well signposted from Castletown Bearhaven.
After this rewarding visit I traveled the country lanes west. First I stopped at a ring fort, Teernahilane, a raised ring fort said to be one of the largest in Ireland. As this is an AD creation and outside the period I cover within Tour Ancient Ireland I did not spend much time here yet it was a fascinating stop.
After heading further west down the country lane I decided that as daylight hours were about two thirds over it was time to start returning east. As I reached the junction to maneuver my change of direction I noticed stones popping out of long grass. I parked and went to investigate. The long grass turned out to be quite soft and deep bog but the stones were worth a visit. Three stones in a kind of triangular form and as I approached them tripped over some large buried stones, probably part of this site. Worth an excavation, I think. There might be the odd gold bracelet and bronze axe buried here at Knockoura.
It was now time to head to the spectacular north coast of the peninsula where a string of some of the best stone circles in Ireland are positioned. The drive over was a rarity. The clarity provided a wonderful view of the stack of islands off of the ring of Kerry, especially of Skellig Michael which seemed so close. After my return I spoke to a tour guide in Co. Wicklow who has taken about 60 groups to Kerry in 12 years and has never seen a view of Skellig Michael yet as it has always been too misty or hazy at the coast. That's how lucky I was today.
My first north coast stop was Ardgroom which is an impressive, despite being jumbled, circle with very tall stones. Rather than the flat orientation stone that is common to circles in this area this has an unusual outlying lozenge shaped pointing stone providing an unusual SSW orientation. Last time I was here it was sunset but this time I was hoping for pictures in the sun. As is common to me on days like this the only cloud around cloud appeared exactly over the site and made it dull, and the cloud would not shift until I started to move away. This has happened to me on visits to Bronahagh in Co. Cork, Lake Isle Of Innishfree in Co. Sligo, Beltany Circle in Co. Donegal and Beaghmore in Co. Tyrone. Symbolic? I did patiently wait and did take my sunlight pictures before a stack of re-enforcement clouds appeared.
If you visit Ardgroom Circle there is a sort of "keep out" sign that is really illustrating that the once wonderful footpath to the circle is no longer maintained. That's true. Since my last visit much of this wonderful path has become buried and disappeared under the bog. However, the circle is still visitable despite also being fast engulfed by shrubs and boggy surroundings. There is a newer large purple sign pointing to the circle and the farmer waved cheerfully as I visited. This indicates that the older sign is really a warning about access rather than a demand to keep out. This is not a place where cattle will graze.
Next and final intended stop was supposed to be the planned highlight of my day, Dromroe Circle. I have read that this is a large circle of many features such as a tall central standing stone and central boulder tomb as well as being incredibly scenic. It takes a while to walk to but is, and now was, well signposted. First, I noticed the first sign from the main road had gone, but these often do. Alas, when I reached the first style a huge yellow "Keep Out" notice is posted. It seems someone was injured on the walk to the circle so now access is closed.
Unfortunately, though Co. Cork and south Co. Kerry is the most abundant area for stone circles and ancient tombs access is very sensitive. Several people have successfully sued farmers when they injured themselves on there land so farmers naturally curb access to their land. Fortunately, recent similar civil actions have failed and this is slowly influencing some farmers to relax access.
As I could not reach Dromroe I quickly took a re-visit to Uragh, which must be the most picturesque place on the Beara peninsula and one of the most amazing in Ireland. The most visited circle is a small five stone circle with a monster tall and wide alignment stone. Here there is a wonderful arrangement for access. There is a trusting donation collection box on the edge of the land.
As daylight was near its end I actually avoided the dramatic circle to look for the other circle in the area that is nestled on the edge of a nearby wood, or so I am told. In fact, I viewed it with my video camera's zoom lens when I visited last time. I have seen wonderful photos of it too.
Alas, I walked all around the woods clockwise and anti-clockwise for about 90 minutes and could not find the circle. I did find a standing stone. Several times I fell face down in the bog to the point I must have looked like part of the bog. My mobile phone rang and my friend, Claire Roche, was asking when I would be back for dinner (which is "for tea" in Ireland). With no hesitation it was a sprint back to the car, extremely fast change of clothes in the bitter wind brewing and a no hassle 4 hour drive back to Co. Dublin for hot bath and "tea".
It had been a wonderful day with the highlights being Derreenataggart circle, Derymihin tombs, Ardgroom circle and The Healy Pass. Not bad for a day's adventure. I'll post photo galleries of this adventure as soon as I can.
2 Comments:
cant believe you didn't checkout the Ballycrovane Ogham stone...Largest/tallest of them all, still in situe, and visibley engraved with ogham...all in the most beautiful site imaginable
lies on old road between ardgroom and eyeries
There's so much to see on the Beara Peninsula. I've made a couple more visits since this blog that I have not blogged or galleried yet, and I still need to go back to catch up on more.
Meanwhile many thanks for the comment and that site is top of my list for the next visit.
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